Day 18- High Sierra Camp to Happy Isles. Fin!
Distance: 16 mi
Elevation Gain: 2,480 ft
Starting Elevation: 9,310 ft
Ending Elevation: 4,040 ft
Today we would finish the JMT! As we woke up from a very unrestful night at High Sierra camp we gathered everything inside of the tent. We peeked out occasionally to see if any more snow had fallen the night before --thankfully less than an inch of snow appeared to be fresh. We attempted to warm ourselves with hot coffee. We worked in the confined space of the tent but the frigid temperatures were unrelenting and we emerged from the tent shivering. It didn't help much that our shoes, wet from yesterday's hike through the slush, had frozen solid overnight. The shoelaces were iced over and we had to jump up and and down with our shoes half on our feet until they warmed enough to slide in the rest of the way. After wrestling our shoes on, we immediately dismantled the tent, got our packs on and hit the trail. Our pace would determine how quickly we warmed up so we set off at a near sprint. Or as near a sprint as you can get after 17 days on the trail.
We started the morning with an 800' foot climb up a snow covered trail before descending nearly 5000' to Yosemite Valley. The descent was slow since melted snow from the day before had frozen overnight creating slippery steps and ice that cracked underneath our feet. We pushed each other to go faster because we knew that the snow had to end eventually and warmer temperatures were waiting down below. After emerging from dense forest cover and into an area charred from a recent wildfire we stopped to take off a few layers and have a snack. We attempted to filter water at a nearby creek but all three of our water filters were frozen solid. We debated heating them up on our camp stove but resolved to make it down with the water we had.
As we drew closer to Yosemite Valley, a stunning view of Half Dome came into focus and gently guided us further. Descending into Yosemite Valley, even though it is a knee-jarring switchback descent of thousands of feet, offers some of the most incredible views along the JMT. The valley is a wonder to behold and the immense forces which shaped it are unfathomable.
We dropped further and further, eventually seeing more people on the trail than we had seen in weeks. At the Half Dome Junction who should we run into but a few friends and former coworkers just completing their descent! We stood at the trail laughing about the unlikely coincidence that we (beginning 17 days and 220 miles before) and they (beginning that morning in Yosemite) should meet at this exact moment at this exact spot. After our chance encounter we pressed on at a rapid pace, eager to make it down to Happy Isles, to water, and to hot showers.
The dirt trail turned into one of broken asphalt and eventually to paved sidewalks. Our adventure was drawing to a close with each step. Earlier that morning we had talked of a hot shower at the Happy Isles campground and the clean clothes waiting in our car. Now, it seemed a reality that we would be finishing the John Muir Trail. Our moods rose as we reached the Happy Isles trailhead. We had done it! 220 miles in 18 days.
Now where did we park the car?
In Yosemite, looking back toward Nevada Falls.
Happy, hungry, and tired but so excited to have made it!
Every view in the valley is breathtaking.